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TELEVISION
Andromeda: Commonwealth Couture


By Don Lipper
posted: 02:28 pm ET
15 December 2000
Costume designer Patricia Hargrave has a very tough job, putting chain mail on Keith Hamilton Cobb. But for others it could be a dream to measure Kevin Sorbo’s inseam. She tells SPACE.com’s Don Lipper how to dress -- for space battles and Commonwealth-restoring success -- about finding a leather look for Beka Valentine and how to stop Rommie’s constantly plunging neckline.

SPACE.com: Have you been designing costumes from the beginning?

Patricia Hargrave: From the third episode [filmed]. Which was the opening episode. From the second and third episodes first, if that makes any sense.

SPACE.com: When you were first designing the look of the costumes, what sort of guidelines did you have?

PH: "Futuristic." The original guidelines were, "create something and let’s see if we can all agree on it." A little bit of a military flavor and elements from everything.

SPACE.com: So how do you create?

PH: It’s pretty open. It was much more open in the beginning then it is now. Now that they have kind of honed it down to a particular look that they like. It’s become, as you probably will notice watching the shows, the cleaner look. "Less is more" is my motto. I’m much happier with the direction that it’s going now.

SPACE.com: Let’s talk about the evolution of the signature uniform, which was the High Guard uniform.

PH: Yeah, many debates over that.

SPACE.com: So how did that evolve?

PH: Well, it evolved in the thinking of how military [dresses] today: a combat-type uniform and a dress uniform. The burgundy being the dress uniform in the beginning. But you’ll notice, as the season goes on, Dylan is only in his combat uniform, with the exception of some flashbacks. They find that works better. It’s less confusing, I think, to the audience as well. It’s much easier for me because we know what Dylan is going to be wearing, we don’t have to figure out if he is in an official capacity with superiors. He just is always in combat mode. Ready for action.

SPACE.com: Now the character of Andromeda has been having quite a field day with her costumes. How has she evolved?

PH: Well, now we have the Andromeda hologram, we have Andromeda AI and we have Rommie, so they all three have a different look. So that a guy in the audience will be able to differentiate between the three characters of Andromeda. But there has been some debate over Rommie still looking like she’s in a uniform as opposed to turning into a femme fatale, for lack of a better description.

SPACE.com: So is she going out of uniform?

PH: No. She’s had a few episodes where the opportunity was for her to be in a different costume where she was dressed up on a prison planet. But mostly she’s just in some kind of an interpretation of her uniform.

SPACE.com: When I spoke with Lexa [Doig who plays Andromeda] she said that the AI and the hologram were going to be wearing a variation of the battleguard uniform.

PH: That’s right.

Next page: some new wrinkles in the neckline debate

SPACE.com: In Star Trek, as I’m sure you know, the Federation uniform evolved over a course of not only the eight years of Next Generation, but DS9 and the movies as well. Will there be a continual evolution of the Andromeda look?

PH: I think so. We are already modifying for next season.

SPACE.com: How so?

PH: Just modifying Dylan’s uniform so that it’s a little more versatile. So he doesn’t have to wear it completely done up, and he can wear it in a more relaxed fashion.

SPACE.com: But you are not incorporating them this year?

PH: Well, we have been, especially with Lexa's costumes. Hers have [been] modified on an episode [by episode] basis actually. They keep that military [look] but also [incorporate a] sexy element.

SPACE.com: So the plunging necklines for the female costumes will continue?

PH: Yeah, but I’m fighting hard to not have it so plunging. I find it distracting myself, but that’s a male/female opinion perhaps.

SPACE.com: Lexa agrees with you.

PH: Yes, I know she does. So we are on the same team on that.

SPACE.com: Are other members of the crew going to be adopting the High Guard uniforms?

PH: No, there was some talk about it in the beginning. There were uniforms made for all of the cast and, I think there was just one episode where we saw Trance in a jacket, with her Trance outfit. I think that’s something that could rear its head again next season, but it's nowhere in our last four episodes that I am aware of now, so their character development is just going to carry on where it is.

Next: painting Trance

SPACE.com: Are they going to be increasing the crews so there will be more High Guard people? Or is it going to pretty much stay at six?

PH: As far as I gather, it’s the top six and our guest stars. The same formula.

SPACE.com: Trance's costume has gone through some changes.

PH: Yes. Well, they really like her in her catsuits. They're much easier for make up to deal with as far as the time factor in shooting. Laura herself is much more comfortable in it than the more exposed [costume]. But I did, for the next episode coming, [give in to] a request to start showing some more skin again. I’m not sure where’s that going, but we’re going to do a peekaboo version of her catsuit so that they can see some more skin. We are going to meet them halfway.

SPACE.com: So if it’s a little peekaboo, does she have to spend as much time in makeup?

PH: Yes because it’s doing her stomach and her back and exposing those areas of her body. I think in the beginning it was five hours of makeup, and they’ve got it down to about 2-1/2 now.

SPACE.com: When they paint each area do they just do those isolated areas or is it easier to just spray-paint her entire torso?

PH: No, they usually only really make her up to just inside the line of her costume. So in the first episode when she pretty much didn’t have a whole lot on, she was full body make up. Now it’s just her neck and shoulders and her hands and her face.

Next page: which guest star is coming back?

SPACE.com: What’s fun for you to design now that you’ve done the hard work of getting the look of the show down?

PH: The guest stars. We’ve had some interesting episodes and been able to use elements from different periods of history, just because of the nature of the planet that they come from. We have one coming up with some water-breathing fish people, so we had to do a costume that incorporated some water tanks that they breathe through with gills on throats. It’s a good compilation with the prosthetic people and figuring out how to do it so it’s as comfortable as possible for the actors and logistically, time related for make up and all of that. So, it’s had its challenges.

SPACE.com: If you were to classify the different looks that the different people have, for example, Gerentex, the Nightsider we see here on the pilot, I would call him, I don’t know, early pimp.

PH: Or he’s Prince. He’s Prince or Liberace. Now he’s a character that is coming back. And he’s a good example of how now I get to modify that into something that’s not quite so flamboyant which I’m happy about, because I think he was quite over the top. And [I get to] modify his prosthetics as well so that he might be facially more appealing. But he is a fabulous character; the actor, and the actual character that he’s playing. So I think he’s going to be threading through. We’ll see him coming, showing his head every once in a while. [He's] coming in, I think, our second to last episode.

SPACE.com: And what would you say Harper is?

PH: Well, he’s a surfer mechanic dude.

SPACE.com: Okay. And what would you call Tyr's costume?

PH: Oh gee, that’s an answer that just rolls off the tip of my tongue. Um, sex god I think. That’s what happens in chain mail. He wears it well.

SPACE.com: And Beka? How would you describe that?

PH: Well I like her look now, better than in the beginning when she was a little bit fluffier. She’s tough, she’s getting slightly more androgynous, and then we see how [that happens]. You haven’t seen that on the screen yet though. And I like the way her look is going. She’s like Ripley from Aliens. That’s kind of the vein that she’s going towards. [She has] that tough, "don’t screw with me, I can kick your ass" kind of attitude to the way that she dresses.

SPACE.com: So is it sort of a jumpsuit leather jacket type deal?

PH: Well, it’s tight pants, sleeveless, showing off her arms, she’s been working out and is looking pretty hot and showing it off a bit more, but not in the same manner as Andromeda.

Next page: sex kittens and why the show needs Magog fur

SPACE.com: And so what kind of clothes can we look forward to on Rommie, how would you describe that?

PH: Well, that’s where the debate has come in with Rommie. She is a giant Barbie doll and the powers that be had disagreements over the uniform, as opposed to her becoming a fashion style. So we’ve done a couple of updates where she was very fashion-oriented, and now everyone has sort of agreed that she should stay in some kind of interpretation of a uniform. But her uniform as Rommie will be made out of vinyl, or something shiny, you know, sexier. So that will be the sexier side of the Andromeda character. But it will still have a uniform flavor to it.

SPACE.com: And Trance's catsuits. What would you call that?

PH: Well, it’s a catsuit and she’s going to be in interpretations of that. She’s supposed to be an acrobat, so she has to look like she move around and hang from her tail.

SPACE.com: So if Tyr is the sex god, she is the sex kitten?

PH: Yes, I guess. Oh, I could certainly see her getting quite a following with the younger generation of males.

SPACE.com: Have there been any costuming nightmares?

PH: Really, there haven’t been any nightmares. The hardest thing [was Beka Valentine], because nobody could really agree on what direction [to go]. She's been down a rocky road, but I think now everybody seems happy. I’m happy, Lisa [Ryder] is happy and I think she looks hot. So there will be more of that. And then [Rev Bem], well, he just is what he is. That’s really my only nightmare.

SPACE.com: Why?

PH: Because of his costume.

SPACE.com: Isn't it just a fur suit and a collar basically?

PH: The planet of Magog is coming up and we cannot find any fur to make Magogs.

SPACE.com: Are the PETA [People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals] supermodels against fake fur now?

PH: It seems so. None of the suppliers have long-haired Magog-like fur. So that’s the only nightmare in our department, is trying to find that fur.

SPACE.com: Why don’t you just use long robes?

PH: Just long robes with furry gloves. Right. What would happen?

SPACE.com: Well, you work with the cinematographer to keep the Magog place really dark and scary so you only sort of half see them. You hear them, and you see them scuttling in and out of the light and darkness, but you basically have Brent doing all the Magog work in his costume.

PH: I might steal that idea.

SPACE.com: You're welcome to it. Free of charge.

 

Related Stories:

Andromeda: Keith Hamilton Cobb Exposed

Andromeda: Building the 50th-Century Bridge

Harper's Inner Geek

Andromeda - 'A Rose in the Ashes'

 

 

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